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06-22-2009 08:21 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Dan Swanson
Date: 5/16/2008 5:46 pm EDT
Just throwing this out there but the 1/4" over 10' is pretty standard whether you are using a floating floor or not.
06-22-2009 08:20 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Doug
Date: 5/12/2008 12:47 am EDT
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Doug
06-22-2009 08:19 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Jonathan
Date: 5/12/2008 12:44 am EDT
Based on your description, it sounds like you'll be OK. If you already have some Avaire (and it sounds like you do), go ahead and Avairetogether a 3'x3' section centered on the hump. Make sure flex at the interlocking seams (grout lines) is enough to contour to the floor. If the outside edges of the tiles are held off the floor, you may need to knock-down the high point of the hump or fill the low areas.
06-22-2009 08:19 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Doug
Date: 5/12/2008 12:35 am EDT
I have a kitchen floor that runs 1.5 inches (as a gradual hump in the center) over 12 feet. It appears to be gradual enough that individual tiles do not rock. Will the tile "float" be able to handle this situation?

Doug
06-22-2009 08:13 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Journeyman
Date: 5/8/2008 9:46 pm EDT
Easy enough to fix Beverly.

Locate the trouble areas. Use some portland cement based floor patch. Mix it up and fill the low spots by dragging a straight edge along the floor to level things off.

Actually this isn't unusual even in a newer home.

Be glad to answer any more questions you may have all you need to do is ask.
06-22-2009 08:13 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Beverly Affeld
Date: 5/8/2008 6:41 pm EDT
We have a simular problem and can't agree on how to fix it with the information that is available. We are ready to return all of the product ($2000 worth). The instructions say the floor can't be 1/4" difference over a 10' span. Our floor is wavey with an 1/8" between an 16" span. We have laid out 10 sq ft and the tiles flex over each low spot. Will this cause the grout to eventually break down and come loose and even cause the tiles to break? This is an old house.
06-22-2009 08:12 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Journeyman
Date: 5/7/2008 1:13 pm EDT
If by "hardboard" you are referring to a product such as "tempered-masonite" then that product wouldn't be the wisest choice. A plywood underlayment would be a much easier material to work with. Screws also wouldn't be required and would be a waste of money and time and problematic to install and would offer no gain. Typically 1/4" crown staples are used for this type of installation. Nails can also work.

More importantly is that your substrate is "plane" to within 1/4" over 10 feet of distance.
06-22-2009 08:11 PM
Avaire Archive Author: Chris
Date: 5/7/2008 9:52 am EDT
Using 1/8" hardboard is an alternative to leveling the floor with patching compounds.It might be a little more money but if you don't have much experience patching floors this route may be the easier. If you do use the hardboard you need to fasten it to the floor, screws would be fine but it could be nailed or stapled also.
06-22-2009 08:10 PM
Avaire Archive
Over floating hardboard

Author: Jim Fremstad
Date: 5/6/2008 7:29 pm EDT
Since there were three layers of linoleum on my kitchen floor and glued down carpet in the adjoining dining area, I elected to tear up the old carpet and scraped it down as well as I could. Their was a height differential between the two room which would become level if I put down 1/8 inch hardboard and butted it to the linoleum. This as an alternative to a "leveling" compound. Can you see any problems with this approach and should the hardboard be screwed to the subfloor or just allowed to float?

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