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06-24-2009 11:28 AM
Avaire Archive Author: chris
Date: 5/28/2009 5:19 pm EDT
Thinset will work, but it's a little more difficult to work with compared to most leveling compounds. If it's just a few areas you should be fine.
06-24-2009 11:28 AM
Avaire Archive Author: Erin
Date: 5/28/2009 3:02 pm EDT
I forgot to ask one more question. Would using thinset work for leveling? I have an extra bag here from a previous project. Thanks again!

-Erin
06-24-2009 11:27 AM
Avaire Archive Author: Erin
Date: 5/28/2009 2:48 pm EDT
Thanks for all the advice! I called around to find out exactly what my options were for disposing of the tile. I carefully took up the old tile last week and disposed of it properly. I decided not to mess with removing the adhesive so I encapsulated it with polyurethane. I measured the floor and it seems to be flat on the x plane but dips about 1/4" in 3 feet near a doorway on the y plane. Also there is ~1/8" variations scattered around other areas. Does this dip require a leveling compound? I'd hate to have to get a huge bag of leveler for a small 2' X 3' area, but I will if I have to. Would a picture help? I'd like to finish this job by the end of this weekend if possible. Thanks again!

-Erin
06-24-2009 11:27 AM
Avaire Archive Author: Chris
Date: 4/13/2009 4:02 pm EDT
Using a portland cement based floor leveler shouldn't damage your hardwood floor if you want to have it refinished at a later date,you would have to sand off all the old vinyl tile adhesive that would be under the floor patch.Be careful when removing the old VAT because it most likely contains asbestos. Using a hardboard underlayment will make the floor smooth but does little to make it flat so you still may be better patching the floor rather than underlaying it, plus it will save money. If you do go the underlayment route then transitioning 3/4" to the other hardwood floor can be done by getting a 3/4" hardsurface reducer that avaiable in most stain colors or available unfinished and stained to match the existing floor. Hope this helps. let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks
06-24-2009 11:27 AM
Avaire Archive
Installing on top of hardwood

Author: Erin
Date: 4/13/2009 3:40 pm EDT
I was wondering if there was any other way to install avaire tile over uneven hardwood floors without using leveler? I was told that I could lay down plywood, hardboard, osb, etc first. My question is if 1/8 to 3-16" hardboard would be enough. My old tile is the 9" tile from like the 40's with either asphalt type or asbestos type adhesive. I am removing the tile to keep the cracking/sticking sound from occuring under the new tile. Many of the old tiles are loose and seperated from the hardwoods causing the sticky sound when walked on. I wasn't sure if I needed to seal the remaining adhesive or not. I don't want to use leveler directly on top of the hardwoods in case I want to sand them down the road, unless there is another way... I believe there are a couple spots that may need leveler on top of the board that I may lay down. There is a 1/2" grade a few feet from a doorway. the rest of the floor is right on the edge of being level enough. like 1/8 - 3/16" variations. I'm not sure how much of this is the tile and how much is the hardwods underneath. I would really like to save the hardwoods underneath in case I wanted them later! I am also concerned that using too thick a board under the avaire tile will cause the transition to the other hardwoods of the house to be too high. Removing the old tile would leave me at 9/16" for the avaire + 3/16"? for underlayment ? for a total of 3/4" to work with.. Is that reasonable? Any help would be appreciated.

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